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Olympus OM-D E-M1 Event

Words by Reagan. Video and images by Daniel S

The Olympus OM-D E-M1 is a flagship micro four-thirds camera model that has received countless awards globally and rightly so. This compact gem is not only retro-styled in a tasteful manner, but also follows suit in packing a punch performance wise.
On Wednesday 8th, our team were privileged to partake in a special Pro Specialist Event held by Olympus at the Hatch Productions Studio in Sydney where they showcased the hot new features and improvements in their v2.0 firmware upgrade for the E-M1 as well as a hands-on play with the highly anticipated 40-150mm PRO Lens (stay tuned for a mini blog review).
Check out the video we’ve put together of the event with Olympus expert Quett giving a brief overview of the new v2.0 software.
Key Improvements found in the OM-D E-M1 v2.0 firmware
 
  1. Keystone Compensation
     
    Allows for the compensation of horizontal and vertical skew that is often encountered when using ultra wide-angle lenses. This is a particularly useful feature for architectural photography. 
  2. Complete Tethered Shooting
     
    Allows complete control of all of the E-M1’s fucntions through Olympus’ new and free
    ‘Olympus Capture’ app (available for both Mac and PC). This app can be integrated with Olympus Viewer 3, Phase One’s Capture One and the Adobe Lightroom workflow software. 
  3. Live Composite
    Capture a single exposure up to a maximum of 3hrs without risk of overexposure. This is a useful feature for star gazers wishing to capture the perfect star trail. Also performs well for fireworks or lightning photography. 
  4. Partial Colour & Vintage Art Filters
    The new Partial Art filter allows for the selective isolation of a particular colour while turning the rest of the image into monochromatic tones with three varying degrees of tolerance. This filter also works with video footage!
  5. Photo Story Mode
    Adds two new layouts for additional collage creation flexibility. A temporary save and resume function allows for collages to be completed at a later date when required.
  6. Old Film Effect
    Adds dust and scratches to your movie to give it an older classic look.
  7. Aperture Lock Function
    Allows for the depth-of-field preview to be maintained without the need to continually hold the assigned depth of field preview button.
  8. Panning Shot
A new panning feature has been added to the Scene Selection mode.
Here are a few images from the day. 
 

















 

Danny Campbell BMX

Words and photos by Daniel Smith

We hooked up with Danny Campbell to shoot some BMX at Castle Cove trails in the northern beaches area of Sydney. The trails were suffering a bit of neglect but after a sweep and water down they were ready to go.

We have a few days left of our Spring Into Action Catalogue so if you have not seen it yet, then have a look at some of the excellent products. All action cam shots were taken using the Sony Action Cameras, a sponsor of Danny.



Check out Danny on Instagram and Facebook.

DCW Creative Space




Some snippets from our recent Creative Space at The Rocks in Sydney. For information on future workshops please go to www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/category1481_1.htm.

Challenges When Shooting Sports

by Daniel Smith

All images by Nick Hodgskin of Nickeh Films.

Sports can be a challenging photographic subject but with the right gear and an understanding of the principles, great results are close at hand. There are a range of challenges that need to be overcome when shooting sports and we will cover some here.


Moving subjects
Depending on the results that you are chasing you generally want to freeze the action. The speed of the runner, cyclist, skateboarder or pole vaulter will determine how fast of a shutter speed you need. When an object is moving across the frame the movement will be more apparent than if it is moving toward the camera. To freeze the action a shutter speed faster than 1/500th of a second should suffice. It is always good to experiment.

You may find that the blur of the motion in the frame can add to the dynamic nature of the shot. If using a slower shutter speed for this, use a tripod to steady the camera or brace yourself against a static object. When using slow shutter speeds to show this blur, a shot will usually look better if there is a part of the frame that is sharp as a reference point.



Distance between camera and the athlete
If you are shooting sport on a field or oval the players are often a bit of a distance away. You need a long lens to bring the action in close. Sports shots will suffer if you are either not close enough to the action or not able to bring it up close enough with a long lens. An effective sports image needs to make the viewer of the image feel like they are there. Surf photography is an example that requires a long lens due to the distance from the action. It is not unusual for top surf photographers to use a 600mm lens. Sports photographers will often shoot with anything from a 200mm lens right up to a 1200mm lens.

On the flipside, at times the physical distance from the sportsperson needs to and can be much closer. Action sports such as BMX, skating, scootering can benefit from a closer perspective. When shooting freestyle action sports often there is a relationship between the rider and the terrain, urban environment, ramp or jump and this is often best represented close up. The dynamic nature of the movement of the rider in conjunction with the relationship to the board, bike, or scooter looks good at a close perspective. A wide lens skews that perspective and can emphasise scale, adding to the impressive nature of the trick. A second purchase after the camera for an avid action sports shooter is often a fisheye or wide angle lens.



Light
This can be a challenge in many facets of sports shooting with both low and high amounts of light causing problems. Games are often held at night in stadiums and sports fields and when you have to shoot at a high shutter speed to freeze the action it does not give you much leeway. To combat this you need a good (fast) aperture on your lens to let in the most light and good low light performance on your camera (high ISO) makes a big difference. Shooting in a stadium during the day also has its issues with the variance in light between sun and shade. Shooting in direct sunlight is always a challenge and if you’re not close enough to balance the light with some fill-flash if can be hard to contend with. A good availability of light does make for a faster shutter speed which is beneficial.



Focus
Focus can be hard to get right when shooting sports because of the fast moving overlapping subjects and changing light you will need a camera with advanced focusing options (7D mkII just announced). Some cameras utilise a high end focus tracking that can preempt the movement of the subject and is able to identify when someone else crosses into frame. Game sports have people moving around in front of the subject you are shooting and the cameras autofocus system needs to be advanced enough to understand where to hold focus on your main subject.


Experiment and try lots of different things. Try to create images that stand out from the standard images you see in the genres of sports photography, choose a different angle or perspective to display a unique viewpoint.

A look at outstanding images from a large event like the Olympic Games will yield an artistic set of images that represents the moment by highlighting the action, the event, the light, a reaction, interaction, all captured in a unique way.







Images © Nick Hodgskin 2014.


Just Announced - Canon 7D MKII & More!


Every two years, the photographic industry turns toward Photokina, the world's leading imaging convention. This event unites trade, professionals and consumers with a photographic passion and this year is set to be huge.

10PM AEST: Canon have just announced three new cameras and three lenses.

Among these is the highly anticipated EOS 7D Mark II DSLR. Here's a rundown list of key features that showcase the EOS 7D MKII's superb value for both photographers and videographers -
  • 20.2 MP APS-C CMOS Sensor
  • 65 Point Auto Focus System
  • 10 FPS Continuous Shooting in RAW & JPG
  • Dual Canon DIGIC 6 Image Processors
  • Dual Pixel CMOS AF
  • Full HD Movie Recording with 60p Support
  • Selectable File Formats including MP4
  • Intelligent Viewfinder II with Approx. 100% Frame Coverage
  • Uncompressed HDMI Support
  • Microphone Input & Headphone Socket
  • Built-in GPS
  • Integrated Speedlite Transmitter
  • 150K Pixel RGB Metering Sensor
  • Dual CF & SD Card Slots
  • Interval Timer
Given the predicted high demand and brilliant specifications, this gem will be a hot seller upon release so we strongly advise potential buyers to act right away!

Pre-order the Canon EOS 7D Mark II -

Body Only
Super Kit
Platinum Kit




Also announced is the new PowerShot G7X which Canon claims to be their most powerful compact camera produced to-date. If a user friendly, lightweight and feature-packed point-and-shoot is to your taste, then this is the one for you (it even has a 180 degree flip screen for selfies)!

Here are the key features of this pocket sized offering -
  • 24mm Wide Angle F/1.8 Lens
  • 1.0"-type Back-Illuminated 20.2MP CMOS Sensor
  • Canon DIGIC 6 Imaging Processor
  • Canon HS System
  • Full HD 60p Movie Recording
  • Full Manual Control
  • 31 Point AF
  • Built-In HDR Mode
  • Star Trails & Star Time Lapse Movie Mode
  • 180 Degree Tilt-able LCD Touchscreen
  • RAW File Mode
Pre-order the pocket rocket PowerShot G7X



For those who prefer an ultra high powered zoom, the new PowerShot SX60 HS is Canon's most powerful SuperZoom camera to-date. Boasting a mammoth 65x optical zoom and 130x Zoomplus (equivalent to 21-1365mm!), framing your subjects from a distance has never been easier. This one is highly recommended for travellers.

Key Features of the SX60 HS -

  • Zoom Framing Assist Button
  • Built-in NFC & WiFi
  • Built-in HDR mode
  • 3.0" Vari-angle LCD Screen
  • Full Manual Control
  • Manual Movie Mode
  • 922K Dot EVF
  • Canon DIGIC 6 Image Processor
  • Canon HS System
  • 21-1365mm (35mm Equivalent) f/3.4 - 6.5 Super Telephoto Zoom Lens
Pre-order the PowerShot SX60 HS travel beast




Alongside the above cameras, Canon have also announced the following lenses to their already impressive portfolio. Click on the links to pre-order each respective lens.

EF 24-105mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM

EF-S 24MM f/2.8 STM

EF 400MM f/4 DO IS II USM


That's a wrap from Canon for now. Stay tuned as we continue to bring you the latest news and announcements from the leading manufacturers at Photokina 2014!

Q&A with Photographer Jack Chauvel


by Daniel Smith

I interviewed Sydney photographer, Jack Chauvel about his photographic practice, the wedding industry and finding that work life balance. Thanks to Jack for sharing his images and an insight into his photographic practice.

Daniel: Can you tell us a little about your journey with photography. How did you get started? How long have you been shooting? How long have you been photographing weddings?

Jack: I have been shooting on a regular basis for over 5 years now. I grew up with framed prints on the walls that my dad had taken on his travels and of myself and my mum (he has a Rolleiflex & Zeiss Ikon). There was also some very inspirational prints from other photographers (Ansel Adams) and it kind of ingrained the love I have for photos early on in my life. We always had many photo albums littered with our travel photos, as well as historical photos of our family in Australia and abroad from over the years.

Eventually I picked up my first proper DSLR in late 2008 in preparation for a trip to Europe in early 2009. I almost sold it before I even left, I felt like the whole process was too overwhelming and that I just lacked the eye for photography. I however persevered and took it with me on my trip. I made myself use it every single day for over 2 months and totally fell in love. When I came back to Australia I was hooked… and instantly was drawn to seascapes/landscapes. From there I started participating a lot on a forum I was a member of. I made a lot of friends, started organising get togethers and shooting trips as well as learning anything and everything I possibly could.

On one of these ‘sunrise’ trips I had organised I met another photographer who I would become best friends with. It was through our friendship and him starting his own wedding photography business that I came to start shooting weddings. As his business grew, my intrigue and how I fit into the picture grew until I was a steady second shooter (and he naturally became a mentor for me). It was in early 2012 that he unveiled some plans which saw me move to launching my business and brand. I ended up shooting many many weddings before I even booked my first one under my own brand.


D: What equipment do you shoot with?

J: I shoot with a Canon kit for weddings and an extensive film kit for a mix of weddings, portraits and landscapes.

Canon Kit: 5D Mark III x 2, Canon 5D Mark I, Canon 35L, Sigma 50 Art, Sigma 85 1.4, Canon 135L, Canon 45 2.8 TS-E, Canon 17–40L, Canon 100 2.8 IS Macro. Canon 600EX x 2, YN 460II, Phottix Strato II Triggers, Hold Fast Moneymaker Straps, Think Tank Lens Changer 3 Shoulder Bag, Delsey Roller Bag, Benro CF Tripod, Couple of LED Lights, Nasty Clamps and Westcott Lightstands.

Film Kit: Canon 1n 35mm, Olympus OM–1 35mm Kit, Contax T2 35mm P&S, Mamiya 645AFD Kit, Mamiya RZ67 Kit, Fuji G617 Panoramic Kit, Yashicamat 124g 6x6 TLR and a Crown Graphic 4x5 Kit and I had a Custom Polaroid Land Camera made which I have called ‘Frank’ (short for Frankenroid).

D: Tell me about your love of film. Is it simply the aesthetic that draws you to shoot film or are there other factors?

J: I really love the process of shooting film. So much so when it comes to my personal work I can go months without even developing or printing the rolls. There are many things to love about film, the detail and feel medium format/large format brings, the different characteristics of film stocks, the feeling you get when you develop your own rolls (and printing which I am starting to do) and not to mention the dynamic range/usability. The simplicity of film is also a very big draw card for me. It is about setting up the shot and once it has been taken there are things you can do in development & printing, but essentially the frame is going to be how you shot it originally. I find these days people focus so much on the editing, rather than the shooting itself (and often the complacency in being able to ‘fix it’ in post).


D: Many photographers working in the wedding field will have a clearly defined line between their ‘wedding work’ and their ‘personal work’. There is always cross over but do you draw that distinction? How much does one inform the other?

J: I think of myself as a photographer first and foremost, that happens to shoot weddings as a main profession but just loves shooting in general. The many hours I spend on my craft helps both my wedding work and non wedding photography and they definitely influence each other in positive ways. I am a firm believer in self improvement, and always aiming to get better and better at what I do. It is when you become complacent that it is time to give it away I think. Being able to show your personal work and love for photography also goes a long way in showing your motives for why you shoot. I think it also personalises and creates a good base for clients (potential, current and past) in being able to bond with you.

I am however looking to run a separate site/brand for my personal work. This is more for specific business reasons than anything else. I also hope to work on giving back what I know, what I have learned and how I can teach that to others in the future.

D: Obviously each shoot is different but what gives you the most enjoyment when shooting a wedding?

J: For me it is the unique story of each wedding. There are always two different people, who have a story of how they met, who have two families who are being joined and multiple social circles who are coming together. One of the biggest perks of the job for me is the variety of people I get to meet (from all parts of the world). There is so much more to shooting a wedding and wedding photography in general than just one wedding day. There are the meetings, the planning, sometimes engagements, the wedding itself, the delivery and all the social interactions in between. By the end of the whole process you get to know each other pretty well and certainly create a bond. I am lucky that I have been able to remain friends with many of my clients, they are able to see my journey continue on and I have the pleasure of them continuing on with their lives (and new beginnings such as starting a family).



D: Wedding photography is a competitive field. How do you define yourself and your style and stay competitive?

J: I think your greatest asset in an industry like wedding photography is yourself. You are the one unique thing you can say nobody else has and you need to make others want to have that asset. Defining a style for me is difficult, because it is just what comes natural to me. I would say it is a candid, photojournalist approach but there is definitely a level of premeditation there. Communication is key in the way you shoot and how your resulting photos look. Being able to talk to people and have them react in a way or interact in a way that is natural is something that comes with experience. You also need to build up that trust, the trust that you are creating the opportunities to take the photos they want. You have to be willing to try things out and have them not work, but know that when you get it right it will be sublime. There are also some clients that need something with a bit more direction, or they are having a wedding which consists of a lot of family, formalities and ‘events’. You must shoot the assignment in the way that it needs to be shot, but also do it in your own way.

The wedding industry is quite large and constantly growing every year. I would like to think there is room for anyone who is willing to find a place for themselves in the market and adapt. I like to interact with a lot of other industry professionals (photographers included) and friends I have made and we all get a long and look forward in growing each others businesses together.


D: Do you have any tips for aspiring photographers on finding that work life balance?

J: The ultimate question for a workaholic like me. I support two people and have done so for many years, so I probably jumped in the deep end a lot later than many others would have. So many people think you work like one or two days a week as a wedding photographer and that is it. I laugh out loud when I hear this now, the shooting part is like .. 10%–20% of the business. The rest of your time is spent doing all other aspects of the business. Maintaining a balance is important, and this is achieved through clear and regular communication with all your stakeholders. Your stakeholders are your clients, vendors, business partners, personal partners, family members, friends and peers. It is really easy to let things back up and become overwhelming and that helps nobody. Setting expectations and managing these over time will give you that work life balance back. Having said that, when it is your own business you will work night and day to make it work. So make sure to reward that hard work whenever you can feasibly do so. Also remember that those who support you will make sacrifices as well.. so I always like to show appreciation where I can.

To see more of Jack’s work have a look at jackchauvel.com, Facebook, Google +, Instagram, and Twitter.














All images © Jack Chauvel 2014. Used with permission.
:)

Food for (Photo) Thought

by Vincent De Angelis 

There's something deliciously primal about food photography. Whether it's pouring over a mouth-watering new recipe book or choosing a restaurant online, the portrayal of food is an image that invites an indulgence of the senses. Bon Appetit however is not the only message available in the foodie image – some shots can be highly politicised, and others content on playfulness. Food as a 'portrait' is certainly an emerging theme.

So here are some foodie portrait tips that work well. Like cooking though, the best recipes often benefit from some carefree experimentation so remember to break the rules and have fun along the way.

 

Go Fresh. Go Raw.

Cook with the freshest and finest of produce. If that Roma tomato is looking dull and bruised, there is no post production work that can save it. Same for the greens - are they brimming with life, or tired and sad?

Also advise the Chef to undercook the food. Yes, I know you were hoping to eat that eye fillet afterwards, but unless you like your steak blue I would suggest writing off any meat and fish you shoot. Slightly undercooked food shows up more deliciously in the final image. If you're photographing baked goods - shoot them hot out of the oven. No limp biscuits allowed.

Plan a shot list

Are you shooting entrées first and desserts last? Will you try shooting that Miso soup from above? The more prepared you are the quicker you can work. If you're with a client, don't let dishes come out when you're not ready. Food can't smile for long. Simply ask for the food when you're ready or near ready. Ahh, if only life were that simple.

Now the food’s on the table, it's time to work your own special sauce. Here's how:

Shoot like you're paparazzi

That means shoot quickly and try lots of angles. You can even go off road - or off tripod - for a few shots, just be sure to bump up that ISO. This will help you grab a variety of perspectives before the food begins to tire. I've found that an unexpected bird's eye view may work better with certain dishes. If you're unsure, begin with 30-45 degrees above the food perspective. 

Extra Tip: Sometimes extremes are good. For instance, flat dishes with interesting shapes, colours or symmetry can look fantastic from directly above. Conversely, a militant side-on shot of tall or 'stacked' dishes works great - think burgers or club sandwiches.


Take a window seat

Everything you know about flash photography for food is a lie - mostly. I've found window light is often the best and easiest to work with on a food shoot. You often don't have enough time to mess with lights and strobe power anyway, so unless you're a speedlite-slinging strobist die-hard - or planning to throw pies on set and need the action stopping power - you could leave that strobe in the camera bag. 

Extra Tip: I love using reflectors to fill in the subtle shadows, or even black cardboard or GOBOs (go between) to block of light and deepen shadows where I want more drama or texture. Some food looks good in low key, others with airy light freshness. Often though it can work both ways and purely depends on your style or what feeling you or your client is after.

Play with your food

Throw cracked pepper on the dish, or dip that shiny dessert spoon into the Crème Brulee. Bring in the human touch. Have fun and don't be afraid to play with angles and props. I couldn't figure out why my Spanish Eggs dish wasn't working until I pierced the yolk with a fork and shot that. Yummo!



Extra tip: Make sure every additional element has its place or don't include it. Sometimes having a friend on board is great as you cannot only bounce off each other’s ideas but also get assistance with things like holding reflectors in place and sourcing props. It also means you can focus more on the photography.

Here's a list of useful equipment to pack: 

·      A wide or standard zoom
-            A lens with Macro or near macro capability is great
-            Shooting at smaller apertures will also help maximise depth of field and hence sharpness across the food
·      Tripod
·      Light stand - to hold reflectors
·      A remote shutter release
·      Various Diffusers and GOBOS
·      Spare batteries and memory cards
·      A tablet or laptop to view your images - If your camera doesn't tether or have wifi, an Eye-Fi card or similar can help.

Shooting food is no more or less technical than other product photography. Careful preparation, a few techniques and a dash of impromptu playfulness can help your sirloin rise above the deluge of smartphone-lit $5 pub meal memoriesthe ones hiding behind an array of instagram filters. That's because unlike any other 'product', the love (or lack thereof) that has gone into preparing the food for its prime time is clearly present in the final image.


So love your cake, and shoot it too.

Talking Pictures by DCW



We created a short introductory video for our revamped channel. All of our videos will now be under Talking Pictures brought to you by DCW and will host a stack of exciting new content. We will feature gear reviews, interviews with photographers, industry news, tips and tricks, amongst other things.

You will see a few changes on the channel in the following months and into the future. If you are wanting to see any specific content, please let us know in the comments.

This video was shot using:

Shooting the Natural Environment

by James Farley


The natural environment is by far one of the greatest opportunities for photographic endeavours available to us, having such an endless variety of subjects, but also so many different ways to capture them with photography. The aesthetic qualities of the environment have always been a huge focus in the photographic community, with many famous and successful photographers basing their entire careers and bodies of work on documenting the natural world.


Whether you’re shooting plants, wildlife, or landscapes, the environment has an extremely wide variety of subjects, and whether it’s in your backyard or out in the wilderness, there are always opportunities to engage in photographing your environment. It’s important to remember to not damage the environment while shooting, by littering or endangering the natural habitats of animals.


Macro photography is often very popular when it comes to photographing nature and the environment, as it can capture miniscule and fascinating details within the subject that are often missed with the naked eye. Creative photographic techniques and equipment can be used to create stunning abstract artworks from simple plants as well, such as using creative effects lenses, filters, or even just shooting from unusual angles.


Personally, when photographing the environment, I have always preferred shooting specifically in overcast weather. Cloud cover helps to diffuse the sunlight, and removes most of the harsh shadows, which is extremely helpful in places with a lot of shadow, such as among trees and bushes.


Equipment


Lenses
The choice of lenses for nature photography has a huge impact on the kind of images you will end up with, and can be largely dependent on the style of photography you are aiming for. Macro lenses work fantastically for capturing tiny details, such as flowers, insects, and even bringing out beautiful patterns in objects such as rocks or tree bark.
For wildlife photography, it can help to use a telephoto zoom lens, which can allow you to photograph the subject from further away, while also giving you some versatility in focal length.

Protection and Cleaning
Shooting outdoors and in weather can present quite a few extra dangers to your camera equipment, so it’s always important to come prepared with some protective and cleaning gear. Depending on what kind of photography you are pursuing, equipment such as rain covers or underwater camera housing can be essential. Cleaning products are always necessary, especially in situations where the camera and lens can get particularly dirty.

Filters
There are a few different filters available that can assist when shooting in the environment. UV filters cut down how much ultraviolet light gets through the camera lens, which despite being invisible to the naked eye, can reduce the quality of your images, especially on bright, glary days. Using a circular polariser filter is always a great idea, as it reduces reflections when shooting water, and also helps to make the colours in your images more naturally vibrant.


James Farley works at DCW and is a keen photographer. Check out more of his work here.



Nightlife

Written by Ryan Hoile.
Concepts covered:  long exposures, manual control, tripods + cable release.

The word Photography is based on the Greek terms "phōtos" (light) and "graphé" (drawing). It becomes clear then why low light or night photography is the undoing of many modern cameras.  How can we draw with light when it isn't there?  The truth of course is that light is almost always surrounding us to some degree, even if our eyes struggle to see it.  Cameras allow us to capture light over a longer period of time to build up an effective exposure providing us with unique opportunities and some interesting challenges.
  Image: Fujifilm X-E1, XF14mm, ISO200, f/8, 30 seconds

Controlling Shutter Speed
Your primary weapon for shooting at night lies with controlling the shutter speed, forcing the camera to remain open for several seconds or even minutes to gather up that small amount of light. Set your camera into Shutter Priority or Full Manual control and pay close attention to your built-in light meter as you gradually increase the length of the exposure. Keep the ISO as low as possible to minimise any noise (graininess) in the image. This works best for static subjects or when you wish to show movement over time, such as lights from cars or the rotation of the earth.

Image: Canon 5DmkII, Zeiss ZE 21mm, ISO100, f/5.6, 1 Hour!

Three Legged Friend
Longer shutter speeds become impossible to hand hold no matter how good the image stabilisation is, so you'll want a tripod. These come in all manner of sizes for all kinds of budgets but the key things to look for are:  Ensuring it's sturdy enough to hold your equipment, small/light enough to carry around with ease and versatile enough to take a range of shots.

Image: Canon 5DmkII, Zeiss ZE 35mm, ISO640, f/2, 1/400th sec

One neat option for urban photography is the Gorillapod, because even smaller traditional tripods are still big but one of these can fit inside a small camera bag. With a Gorillapod 
you can make use of your surroundings: ledges, streetlamps, tree branches and handrails become supports for your camera as well as attracting much less attention.

Image: Canon 5DmkII, Zeiss ZE 21mm, ISO800, f/2.8, 1/60th sec
With your camera on a sturdy support consider also using a remote cable release. These are quite inexpensive and available for most DSLR's and some higher end compact cameras. A cable release lets you shoot away without physically touching the camera eliminating any vibration.

Fast and Bokehlicious
Not all low light shooting lends itself to using tripods. When you need to hand hold your shot or your subject is moving, you'll want a "Fast Lens". What's that? It's a lens with a large maximum aperture such as f/1.4 to f/2, these let in a huge amount of light and when combined with a little extra ISO you'll have enough shutter speed to keep things sharp even without a tripod. BONUS! Fast lenses also have the nice ability to render backgrounds considerably blurry. If you frame some highlights in your background they'll turn into great big smooth circles of light. It's a look that will stand well above the typical camera phone shot.

Image: Canon 5DmkII, Zeiss ZE 35mm, ISO640, f/2, 1/50th sec
These are just some of the ways you can use your camera when the sun goes down.  Most locations, especially within cities look very different at night than they do during the day so be on the lookout for interesting uses of lighting... shapes, colours etc. Other night shooting options like introducing your own lighting or flash photography require further reading...

Image: Canon 5DmkII, Zeiss ZE 21mm, ISO800, f/2.8, 1/60th sec
Recommended Gear: camera with manual control, tripod, cable release, fast lens, flash/torch