Owning Multiple Cameras – Part 1

…different cameras for different uses

By Marc B

If only a one-size-fits-all camera existed, one that had the optical and sensor quality of a high end DSLR but in the size of a compact, with a massive zoom range but also wide open apertures.  Such a camera doesn’t exist yet so it’s left to us to pick and choose the right camera for the right situation.  This is great news for us cameraholics who love an excuse to buy yet another cool camera.  But which camera suits which situation?

Most photographers find themselves in a variety of situations that call for different lenses and sometimes completely different systems.  Below are some suggestions of camera types that are suitable for specific situations although any camera is better than no camera at all.

Street Photography

Street photography calls for a small, unobtrusive camera that still produces high quality images.  There are two popular choices for this area.  The first is a compact, fixed lens camera like the Fuji X100s or X20, Canon G16, Nikon Coolpix A or the Sony RX1 R at the high end.  These cameras are relatively small in size but give an outstanding result in challenging conditions.  The advantage of them being so small is the ability to take photos unobtrusively and candidly in a street situation or even a social occasion like a wedding (if you aren’t the primary photographer) where you might want a more relaxed and less posed photo. 

Another option would be a full size DSLR but with a small prime lens attached, like a 50mm or 24mm large aperture lens.  These are cheaper than a high quality zoom lens but can be of similar or better optical quality and in a much smaller form factor.  These cameras can be set up easily for pre focusing (a technique that involves pre focusing a known distance from the camera so you can shoot instantly without waiting for the camera to focus) so you don’t miss that vital moment.

Special Occasion Photography

This refers to things like professional wedding or portrait photography where the image quality is of absolute importance.  For this you want to have the best quality you can afford and ideally this would be professional quality glass with a full frame DSLR.  Size and weight factors are less important here than in other types of photography as the final result needs to be of the upmost quality.  The lens selection is basically the ‘three amigos’; 16-35mm, 24-70mm and 70-200mm lenses (or very similar focal lengths).  This gives the range required for almost any situation you are likely to be in.  Here is a link to our lenses page.

As an extension of this, the cameras listed in the street photography section would also be appropriate as a second camera as long as you understand the limits of the cameras.

Next blog, I’ll be exploring cameras to use for landscape photography, everyday photography and travel photography.

Read More

Introduction to Photography Exposure Terms – Part 2: Aperture

By Marc B

Last week we introduced beginners to shutter speed. This week (in Part 2 of the Introduction to Photography Exposure Terms), we’re introducing aperture.  

Using these two settings effectively, along with ISO settings, are key factors in creating the type and style of photograph you want. Think about the outcome you want and adjust your settings. Experimentation is the best way to learn what works, and most importantly, what works for you. So start shooting!

Aperture

There are two reasons to adjust aperture settings. These are, to control the amount of light in your photographs, and creating your desired depth of field in each shot.

Light

The aperture or ‘f stop’ refers to the opening inside a lens that controls how much light passes through the lens to the sensor.  In most lenses this is variable so the photographer can control the light with a high degree of accuracy, choosing if they want a brighter or darker photograph.

The widest aperture of a lens is usually written on the front the lens, and is usually shown as, 1:2.8. This means that the largest aperture on the lens is f2.8. 

On some zoom lenses it may be expressed as something similar to, 1:3.5-4.6. This means that at the widest focal length of the lens the largest aperture is f3.5 and when you zoom all the way in, the largest aperture will be f4.6.  The different representation of the aperture on a zoom lens is because the lens itself absorbs light as it is extended or ‘zoomed in’.

Depth of Field

Controlling the area of apparent sharpness in an image is referred to as the depth-of-field (dof) in an image.  A large aperture (which is achieved by selecting a small number ie. f2.4) will give a shallow depth of field to an image, and a small aperture (which is achieved by selecting a large number ie. f22) will give a deep depth of field.

In the graphic below the relative sizes of the apertures are shown.  At f22 the image will have apparent sharpness from front to back.  At f1.8 the image will have a narrow band of sharpness, or a shallow depth of field.

Examples

The first image is shot with a large aperture of f2.8 and you can see how the depth of field drops off quickly and the image loses sharpness.

 

The second image was shot with a small aperture of f22 and the depth of field is now very deep and there is detail a lot further back into the image.

 

 

Keep in mind that if you want the entire image to be sharp you need to use a small aperture (choose a large ‘f stop’ number).  If you want to achieve a shallow depth of field, use a large aperture, such as f2.4 or f1.8.

Experiment and have fun!

Next week, Part 3 of our ‘Introduction to Photography Exposure Terms’ will be on ISO.

Read More

Six Reasons to Upgrade to a DSLR

Compact digital cameras are pretty impressive these days and everyone needs a small and lightweight camera to take on outings, to family events, concerts and for everyday photography. Compact cameras do have their limitations though and there will be times when you want more control over your creativity or just a little more power.

For these situations a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera may just be the thing to take your photography above and beyond. Here are some reasons why you should upgrade to a DSLR camera.

 

                

1.         Low Light Performance

DSLRs have a much larger sensor than the majority of compact cameras. The bigger sensors have better light sensitivity and are less prone to noise (digital graininess or colour spots) and therefore create better images in low light. The advanced sensor technology and reduction in noise allow for usable images at much higher ISOs (higher light sensitivity).  Paired with a lens that lets in more light (low aperture), you will be amazed by some of the low light situations that you can shoot in.

2.         Interchangeable Lenses

With a DSLR comes versatility. Because the lenses are interchangeable, the one camera can be used in multiple shooting situations. A wide angle lens has a larger angle of view and can be good for landscapes whilst a telephoto zoom may be your go-to lens for portraiture. With a variety of lenses, one camera can shoot in many different situations with a myriad of effects.

3.         Better Portraits

DSLRs can give better results for portraiture for a number of reasons; their larger sensors provide a more shallow depth of field, blurring the background and separating your subject from the background. This is what creates that pop or the more 3-dimensional effect. There are a series of lenses available that are considered to be ‘portrait lenses’. These lenses generally range between 85mm and 135mm, although there are no hard and fast rules. The lenses in this style can be more flattering as that viewpoint will compress or flatten the features of the face somewhat in comparison to a wide lens that will distort the features.

4.         Speed

Whilst there are exceptions to this in the world of compact cameras, the majority of DSLRs are faster than compact cameras. The overall layout on a DSLR is geared to quick operation with the most used functions being easily accessible at your fingertips. The assortment of dials and buttons fit in with the ergonomic design of the DSLR for quick and easy manual control.

DSLR Lenses use a faster method of focus that can track moving subjects accurately. Combine this with a fast frame rate (quick successive shots) and the DSLR is the obvious choice for sports or actions shooters.

 

As you climb higher up the DSLR ladder you will see higher speeds and designs more suited to the speed conscious shooter.

5.         Control

Even with all of today’s bells and whistles, cameras are still built on a few main functions; aperture, shutter speed, focus and ISO. In essence it is the combination of these that will determine how your photographs will look.  Recent camera advancements make it possible to never have to consider any manual settings at all but manual modes are where the fun lies.

Although daunting initially, being able to creatively control your camera opens a world of shooting possibilities and improves your photography. The beauty of digital is that you can experiment and learn on the fly, reviewing images as you shoot them and seeing what works and what does not.

6.         Large Range of Accessories

Flash units, filters, remotes, bags, cases, cables, microphones, software and more. DSLRs have the largest number of cool accessories by far and these can be used to control the camera, enhance the images as you take them, or in post-production. The possibilities are unlimited and once you get a DSLR you will be on the lookout for the next interesting accessory to boost your kit.

While a DSLR is not essential for good photography it can allow you to get a step closer to achieving your artistic vision. A good DSLR camera will enable you to take control. 

If the idea of a larger camera is off-putting but you still want some extra control and interchangeable lenses, check out the more compact CSC cameras. These cameras, while not quite at the level of a DSLR, are advancing at a fast rate and offer many of the advantages above.  There are shooters out there getting some amazing results with high end compacts, rangefinder styled cameras and CSC cameras. In the end it comes down to personal preference and your requirements; as the saying goes – ‘the best camera is the one that's with you’.

You may find that your photography demands a variety of different cameras for different situation but the DSLR is still the most versatile option for innovative images.

What are your thoughts? Has using a DSLR enhanced your photography? Are you a compact camera boffin? Is CSC your camera of choice? Let us know in the comments below.

Read More

International Fleet Review – Tips for Photographing Naval Ships

The International Fleet Review is coming to Sydney! Here are some useful tips and equipment suggestions to get you out around the water’s edge (whether in Sydney or not), shooting great quality pictures.

Lens Hoods

If you find yourself shooting in the middle of the day, particularly around water, a lens hood is a must.  The lens hood is the accessory that looks like a cup or flower and that attaches to the end of your lens. It is designed to stop unwanted light from entering your lens at a narrow angle in order to avoid lens flare while improving lens performance.  A lens hood also has the added advantage of providing a small amount of protection around the front of your lens in the unfortunate circumstance of a drop. While it does not guarantee a complete lens save, having one present may minimise the damage and is certainly better than not having one at all.

Circular Polarisers

A polariser is another great idea, particularly in circumstances where there is a lot of glare.  The polariser’s job is to diminish any reflections from non-metallic surfaces like water, foliage and glass.  It has a varying degree of effectiveness, depending on the angle of the light reflecting off the object and where the sun is in the sky.  At times a polariser can almost completely eliminate glare off water or reflections on windows. 

Using a polariser in a sunny situation around water can deepen the colour of the water and almost eliminate the specula highlights from the surface, giving shots an improved colour clarity and vibrance.  A polariser will deepen the blue in the sky and make clouds appear more defined. 

Something to keep in mind is that the polariser filter can absorb almost half of the light passing through. Better quality polarisers absorb less light and have better coatings so it may be worth spending a bit extra for the better quality filters.

Graduated Neutral Density Filter

Another type of filter to consider is the graduated neutral density filter (ND).  A filter such the Cokin P Series sits in a filter holder, which then attaches to your lens and allows you to use two or three filters at a time. 

The ND filter is square or rectangular shape filter that is dark at one end and gradually changes to clear at the other.  Use this filter when an area of the image is bright, but the rest of the image is not.  A perfect example is a sunset with a very bright sky but a foreground that is too dark to capture any detail.  The ND filter should be positioned so that the dark part of the filter covered the sky (rendering it darker) but the clear part covered the foreground (having no effect).  The result would be a ‘flattening’ of the image allowing detail in the brightest area and the darkest area. 

This would be great to capture a few late afternoon or sunset shots of the ships in the harbour.

Monopods

A monopod is a single leg that supports your camera and enables you to quickly change position when required and hold your camera steadily, allowing longer lenses to be used comfortably and at slower shutter speeds than handheld. 

The main advantage of using a monopod over a tripod is that they are smaller, lighter and faster to set up.  They're capable of supporting the weight of your gear easily with some models being able to hold in excess of 40kg.  When using a long focal length lens to photograph the ships, a monopod not only helps to hold your camera steady, but also reduces the risk of camera shake, allowing you to quickly change positions to capture the perfect shot.

Lenses

There are two types of lenses that may be useful when shooting on the harbour:  A wide angle and a telephoto.

Wide Angle Lens

The wide angle lens an ideal lens to use to capture the overall scene with a majestic wide shot of the harbour showcasing the scale of the International Fleet Review. A wide angle lens can also be very useful in the small confines of boats when there is insufficient room to ‘fit it all in’ with a standard zoom lens.  The focal length to aim for when using a full frame sensor would be in the 14 to 17mm range and around 10mm for a crop sensor DSLR.

Telephoto Lens

The telephoto lens is excellent when you’re trying to get close-up images of the ships from shore.  When using a telephoto lens keep in mind that you need to ensure your shutter speed is fast enough to eliminate blur caused by camera movement (see monopod).  The easiest way to do this is to use a higher ISO or a larger aperture lens.  Image stabilisation is also helpful with many telephoto lenses sporting this feature (it’s known as Image Stabilization for Canon and Vibration Reduction for Nikon).  Telephoto lenses are also great for singling out certain details while on-board one of the ships. E.g. A knotted rope or flag. Longer lenses around the 50 to 100mm focal length are also great for portraits.

These are just a few things to keep in mind when shooting events situated around water. Additional things to consider would be to ensure you are equipped with sufficient memory cards, compatible spare batteries, and some cleaning equipment such as the popular Spudz cleaning cloth at very least. 

Apart from that, keep your eyes open for any fleeting opportunities and keep shooting!

Read More

Prime Lenses - A Quick Guide

Canon 50mm EF f/1.8 II aka 'Nifty Fifty' 


A prime lens is a lens with only one focal length, like a 50mm or 100mm lens.  They are different from zooms which have a varying focal length such as an 18-55mm 'kit' lens most people buy with their first DSLR.  Shooting with a prime lens is one of the quickest ways to improve your photography.  It makes you think about your image more and forces you to get out of the zoom lens habit.  If you think that you've hit the creative wall and are looking for something to kick start your passion again or are looking for a different angle with your photography than read on to find out how a prime lens can help.

Advantages of a prime lens over a zoom -
Optical quality for even entry level prime lenses is usually better than or equal to all but the most expensive zoom lenses.  This is due to the fact that fixed focal length lenses are less likely to suffer from excessive chromatic aberration (colour fringing near the edge of the frame), barrel or pincushion distortion than a lot of zoom lenses.  A prime is also lighter and more compact than a zoom and is easier to carry around all day.

Disadvantages of a prime lens over a zoom -
You will need to carry around several prime lenses to cover the same range of a single zoom lens.  Changing focal length is sometimes the only way to get a shot if you can't physically move your position.  Changing lenses less often with a zoom can keep more dust out of your sensor area.  A professional level zoom can have very high quality optics but at a much higher cost (you get what you pay for). 

I carry around 24mm, 50mm and 100mm lenses in my kit bag for when I go out for a day’s shooting.  I also have a 24-70mm Canon L series lens for professional work as the optics are very good and there is no time to change lenses on a fast paced shoot.  For street and architecture I almost always use a prime lens as the situation is a bit more predictable, particularly architecture as buildings don't tend to move much.  The 50mm is my favorite for portraits as the shallow depth of field is very effective at isolating my subject and I find the perspective to be quite natural. 


Olympus Zuiko 25mm f/2.8 'Pancake'

A Few Tips -
With a bit of practice you can become quite quick at changing lenses on the fly.  Keep your surroundings in mind while changing lenses, keep an eye on things like rain, high dust environments and always face the camera in a downwards direction as this helps stop things falling inside the mirror box.

You can get a prime lens for a surprisingly small amount of money and it can be a great way to get inspired again, plus, isn't it always nice to buy some new glass?

Check out our wide range of lenses HERE. 

- Marc Busoli @ DCW

Read More

Tamron's "Widen Your Horizons" Competition - Win $70,000 in Prizes!

Tamron Australia has launched some awesome new competitions around the theme "Widen Your Horizons"  where you can get the chance to share in prizes valued at over $70,000, including a 17-day Vietnam Adventure for two!

The theme is all about travel, and with the Tamron AF 18-270mm PZD lens being one of the most popular all-in-one zooms for the photo traveller, Tamron are highlighting their other excellent wide-angle zoom lens that is very popular for travel photography: the Tamron 10-24mm.

To enter the draw for the Peregrine Vietnam Adventure for 2 simply purchase any Tamron Lens from us and then enter the competition here. There are also "cash-off" consolation prizes to be won weekly.

And if that wasn't enough, there's a Photo Competition where you can be in the running to win "The Ultimate Camera Gear Travel Kit". 

You want more, you say? Well by entering the photo comp you can also be in the race to score yourself a fantastic Tamron 10-24mm wide-angle lens - winners are chosen fortnightly. Plus there are also "cash-off" consolation prizes.

The competition started on Friday 6th July 2012 and runs until Monday 3rd September 2012.

For further  information and terms and conditions jump on over to Tamron Australia.

Read More