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Showing posts with label Landscape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Landscape. Show all posts

Shift Your Perspective



It is a universally acknowledged fact that we, as people, love to document the places we visit by means of photograph. This travel tradition isn’t just limited to checking out new states or countries.

No, no, we do this all the time now, thanks to social media. We can post our “Hi mom!” pics from anywhere, even our favourite coffee place up the street.

Because we’re all a little guilty of using our phone cameras more than our actual cameras, we’ve probably noticed a difference in the field of view between the two. If this annoys you, there are solutions to help you capture more of what you’re seeing.

One of them is wide angle lenses. They don’t have to be extreme to get the point across, either.

Essentially, they let you fit more into your field of view which can lend to better, more expansive looking skies and landscape shots. If you’re travelling, this is a nice little option.

Another significant feature is that they can make small spaces look bigger or truer to life. This is a much better way for real estate and interior photographers to capture a broader, more realistic view of an entire room for clients.

These are the kind of photos that get people interested in visiting your space or inspecting your properties, so that’s really something to keep in mind if you provide these services.

As a comparison, we shot the interior of a car because that’s nice and cramped.


On the left, 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens vs a 12mm f/2 wide angle lens on the right

We shot on an APS-C camera with a common kit lens and a wide angle prime. While the difference doesn’t seem like much on paper, you can see it in the pictures. The wide lens makes things look more spacious or further away. For a more dramatic comparison, here’s what a 28mm f/2 looks like next to the same 12mm f/2.

 Left: The 28mm f/2 lens becomes closer to a 42mm on APS-C.   Right: Still the same 12mm f/2 as above.

Yeah, this is way more noticeable. You can see that, even from the same angle in both photo sets, the space changes quite a bit as your field of view increases.

With this increase, however, there’s a conundrum; wide angle distortion.

This becomes very obvious when photographing humans with these lenses. Let’s just say they’re not ideal for portraits and leave it at that.

Most often, you might notice distortion around the edges of your image, especially when taking photos of things like buildings.

The nature of their optical design is such that, when pointed up or down, wide angle lenses can cause make vertical lines appear to pinch in at the top or bottom of the frame depending on how your camera is angled.

This is due to the convex curves of the glass elements. Light can’t enter the edges of a lens the same way it enters at the centre. So in exchange for the increased view, you lose a bit of clarity around the edges.

Enter the tilt shift lens.

These highly specialised lenses are all about perspective and sharpness. They come in a range of focal lengths, including wide angles.

Dang, is that lens broken? Nah, it’s just a Tilt Shift lens doing what it does best.  

As the name suggests, you can physically tilt and shift the optics within the lens, meaning you can setup your camera and make what seem like physical adjustments without actually moving it.

The shift function provides up and down, or side-to-side movements while keeping your sensor and focus planes parallel with the vertical object you’re trying to shoot.

If you’re wondering what the heck that looks like, don’t worry, we’ve prepared a diagram.

On the left, both focus and sensor planes are not parallel to the vertical buildings. On the right, they are.  

As you can see on the left, the sensor and focal planes are not aligned with the vertical rise of the buildings.  The top of the building could be distorted by the top part of the lens.

On the right, both planes are parallel with the buildings, but lens has been shifted upwards to put the buildings in frame using the sharper, central part of the lens.

So instead of composing your image by moving your camera around, you can do this by aligning it with the horizon and just shifting the optics up or down to get your ideal framing.

Once you dial in the perfect amount of adjustment, you’ll notice corrected vertical distortion and better edge-to-edge clarity. This means you can take advantage of the wide angle field of view to capture large structures in their entirety with better accuracy and sharpness. 

Here are some photographs we took with a tilt shift lens to show the difference it can make.

You can see what all of this looks like in the above images. The one on the left seems fine until you add some handy lines that show the verticals are actually at an angle. If those red lines were long enough, they’d eventually converge.

On the right, the lines are straight up and down. This was achieved by using the shift function on our Canon 50mm f2.8L Tilt Shift lens. Side by side, the difference is pretty significant.

Where these lenses truly shine, however, is in creating large scale prints of architecture or cityscapes. They let you capture beautifully sharp photos of buildings and structures without distortion to distract from your overall result.

Now, as you may have guessed, the shift function is only half of what these lenses can do. Stay tuned for our next instalment where we explore the strange and amazing tilt feature!

Want to talk tilt shift with us? Drop us a message on our social media pages

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Interview with Photographer James Murphy

by Daniel Smith

I chatted with James Murphy, Newcastle based photographer and educator about his photographic practice and iPhoneography.

Daniel: Hi James. Can you tell me a little bit about your photographic practice? How did you get started in photography?

James: Hi Daniel. I got started in photography with a Yashica twin lens medium format camera my father owned when I was a teenager. At one point I set up a darkroom in my parents bathroom when they were away on holidays and spent the week developing film and printing photos in the shower recess. I later went to many different TAFE hobby classes and became more and more enticed by the black and white image. After attending many TAFE courses I enrolled in a Bachelors Degree in Fine Arts and continued my education in Photography and the Visual Arts.



Daniel: What is your camera of choice?

James: Since the beginning of the year I shoot with a Nikon df, and have just bought a new set of prime lenses 24mm, 50mm and and 85mm to work with and replaced the set of zoom lenses I have used for many years. I also have been carrying a Canon compact with me for a long while, mostly for portability but that is being left home more often now in favour of the Nikon. I’ve always been a Nikon user from the early days.



Daniel: I was quite taken by your iPhone images. Can you tell us how that fits into your overall practice? Is it the fact that you always have the phone on you that attracts you or is there something in the aesthetics of the iPhone images or processing options?

James: Thanks Daniel. The phone camera and Instagram are great because they get the images out there really quickly and I get just as quick a response from those who view the shots. It’s not that the phone is there all the time because I usually have to juggle the phone with the digital camera I am always carrying. The square format is interesting to use as a compositional tool or to crop to from a full frame shot. It’s just really good practice I think, particularly with composition. Sometimes I just crop and re-crop up to a dozen times until the image feels right to me. Using the phone camera as a regular imaging tool is again a way of experimenting for me, a way I can try new things. Every camera you use I think gives you a different take on your imaging.


Daniel: Can you tell me a little about your decision to upload your Instagram images in groups of three. What you see when viewing your feed is a series of triptychs that tie together visually like a mini-exhibition. How does this effect your style of shooting? Do one off images miss out or do you need to find companion pieces for them?

James: At Art school we were always encouraged to work in series. If you delve back into my Instagram feed you will find the point when I started working with triptychs. Prior to that it was just individual images and me getting a handle on what I wanted to do with this new (to me) medium. I enjoy the challenge of working with a series, of what to include and what to leave out. That if there are only two that work then the whole set doesn’t work and will be left on the shelf. I will shoot a one off image of something happening that I’d like to remember but otherwise if I’m shooting I’m always aiming for a set of three and I either get what I want or recognise that it’s not working and move on to something else.


Daniel: Can you tell me about a few of the  different projects that you have been working on. [e.g. Habitat, Two Chairs, The Distracted Sky, After the Fire, or others of your choice]

James: Photography for me, has always been documentary in nature. Whether of the inner or the outer landscape, or more usually both. After the Fire, exhibited earlier this year, was prompted by the fires that swept by the town where my family and I live. The fire came within 30 metres of our home and we were all evacuated and spent a terrifying 36 hrs not knowing what was happening in the town. The devastation caused by the fire brought about an emotional response from me as I wandered the burnt bushland in the months following the fire. The images were created as I walked everyday through the blackened landscape.


Two Chairs speaks to the idea of companionship and growing old together within a relationship. There is a photo I have of my parents both leaning forward and resting on the kitchen bench looking out through the back window. Both comfortable in their silence yet completely in touch with each other. This snapshot inspired this series as I started to notice the special places people reserve as a place to sit quietly in the company of a loved one.


The most recent series is one from a group exhibition called Transit Town. The series was guided by the notion of retaining the feeling of a moment now held only in the wash of memory. The images depict fictional travellers and moments that stick, moments based in the fact of a situation but often viewed through a fictionalised filter in their minds eye.


Daniel: You teach photography. What is the most important thing that you try to instil in photographic students? [or multiple things]


James: There are so many things to know especially with digital post production. Mostly though it’s about knowing what you’re after when you pick up the camera and recognising whether you have it or not in the view finder and then later when you’re editing the image.

Daniel: What pointers do you have for people starting out in photography?

James: Bury yourself in images. Just look at all the photographers you can. Work out what you like and what you don’t. Try everything until you work yourself out and know what you want to do with your images. In terms of technical, I read a lot and I have some authors that I feel simpatico with and I trust what they are saying in terms of editing images etc. Find an author who speaks to you and follow their advice on what’s what.


Daniel: Do you have any practical tips for getting the most out of shooting on the iPhone? [low light tips, good accessories, how to steady shots etc]

James: There are no accessories I use with my iPhone, though I bought a set of lenses for one of my kids last xmas. She is a pretty keen photographer and also enjoys the ease of use she gets from the phone and phone apps. I don’t like to shoot through apps as much as the phone camera though I do occasionally use Toon Camera to grab a shot. The only tip is to keep shooting until you get the shot right.


Daniel: How much post production is involved with each iPhone image and what apps do you use?

James: It usually goes quickly but there are times when I work across 2 or 3 different apps back and forth. Snapseed is almost always my first choice for editing and often the only app I use. The difficulty for me sometimes is remembering the values I use across three different images. Consistency is usually important so I’ll often write done the values - contrast, ambience, structure etc., so all three images come out with the same look.

InstaBlender, Toon Camera are pulled in some times and I’ll sometimes use Decim8 to redo a set of in a new way. This happens if I haven’t shot much and I want to post a set. I’ll review some old images and drag them into Decim8 and wait to see what comes out the other end. It’s pretty wild sometimes and I like the unexpected aspect of this.

More work by James can be seen on his website, Instagram and his blog.















Images copyright James Murphy © 2014


Owning Multiple Cameras – Part 2

…different cameras for different uses

By Marc B

Owning Multiple Cameras – Part 1 explored street photography and special occasion photography. Below are some suggestions of camera types that are suitable for specific situations. Remember, any camera is better than no camera at all!

Landscape Photography
Landscape photography is all about wide open spaces, detail, sharpness and rugged equipment. You can use a few different cameras for this type of photography.  The only essential would be a camera that can use filters as landscape photographers have a need for a few different types of filters (
ND, ND Grads, circular polarisers etc.).  A Compact System Camera (CSC) is ideal for this as they are light, some are weather resistant and have some high quality lenses that can take a filter.  Another advantage of a CSC is that they are compact enough to go in a backpack if you are hiking, but good enough quality to get awesome results.  The lens selection is great and there are plenty of cameras to choose from.

Everyday Photography

There are times when the phone camera just doesn’t cut it (indoors, low light, if you need to zoom) and you need a camera that can far outdo the results from what your phone can do but you don’t want to lug around a big DSLR.  For this there is a range of small but high quality cameras available with built in Wi-Fi so you can still share those moments instantly.  But now you can do it with awesome quality.  Some cameras that fit this category are the Canon S120, the latest in a long line of ‘S’ series cameras that are known for their low light performance, the new Fujifilm XQ1 which is the smallest Fuji camera yet to feature their very well respected X-Trans sensor and it also features no low pass filter for extra sharpness.  Other cameras are the Sony RX100 II which is very small but with a larger sensor size than most other compacts for exceptional image quality.  All of these cameras feature Wi-Fi and all have apps available to stream your images to your smart device for uploading to your social networking site of choice.  The main difference being that your photos will be of a much higher quality than your friends’ photos.

Travel Photography

Travel photography encompasses such a wide range of photography styles (architecture, portrait, landscape, street and general photography) that it is impossible to find one camera to do it all.  The best option here is to take two cameras (this article assumes photography will be a major interest when you go on holidays), one of them should be your DSLR or CSC with appropriate lenses, and the other should be a good compact super-zoom camera.
The DSLR is the go-to camera that you use for the majority of the trip, these photos are unrepeatable events and you should use your best gear to capture them.
The compact is your back-up camera and is the camera to take with you if you find yourself going to events that do not allow (or you simply don’t want to take) a DSLR.  The compact should have a big zoom for those times when you need to get in close and Wi-Fi for transferring to your smart device to share the moment with friends and family.  Some good options here are the Panasonic TZ40 with a 20X optical zoom, Wi-Fi and NFC.  This comes from a long line of very successful travel zoom cameras from Panasonic.  The Olympus SH-50 also features a slightly bigger 24X zoom lens with an advanced 5 axis image stabilisation feature when using video to really steady those hands.  It also uses a 16 MP BSI CMOS sensor for great low light ability.  Nikon also has the popular S9500 travel zoom which features a 22X zoom, 18MP sensor, Wi-Fi, GPS for tracking where you took the photo and full HD video recording.
These are just a few options of cameras available for these photographic styles, there are plenty more in-store so come on in, call us or check out our website to see what else we have on offer!